Friday, November 02, 2007

Memories

[Written January, 2007]

The Human Resources Director at my company flipped through my passport as she verified my identity before I began work again after a four month sabbatical. It was eight in the morning and I was groggy, wondering how I ended up back here. In September, I left to string for the Star-Tribune. At once a career exploration, it was also a great excuse to travel.

Here I was, getting my old job back at the insurance brokerage I worked at since 2003 and all I could think about was the anomalous second ‘out’ stamp on my visa with Sweden (my flight back to Warsaw was cancelled on account of heavy fog and I was never “stamped” back into Sweden).

My journey started by flying to Warsaw, staying with a friend from my hometown of St. Louis Park. From Warsaw, I would travel around the continent.

As I weaved my way through Poland, Switzerland, Hungary, Greece, the Czech Republic, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, and in a fortuitous set of circumstances, Ecuador, the world became enormous and microcosmic at the same time.

I never went abroad during college, opting to focus on what Gustavus had to offer domestically. I graduated in 2005, went full-time with my company, and started hoarding my unused salary.

After saving a healthy sum, I felt comfortable leaving to travel and tackle the world on my own terms. Having an open door in Geneva at the UN’s press office with a freelance journalist to learn the ways of the pen, I made it my first stop. A press junket to Ecuador availed itself to me and I seized the opportunity.

I am part of a growing number of people in my generation who, knowing that this is the most opportune time to travel (no spouse, kids, mortgage, etc.), throw caution to the wind and see the world.

Three months outside of one’s native country allows access for that individual to a new perspective. Put simply, a fish is not aware of that fact that it is a fish, until taken out of water. And it’s getting back into the water that yields epiphanies.

O’Hare was busy when my flight finally touched American soil after ten hours in the air. Bustling people trying to catch their domestic flight from Chicago pushed and shoved as they peered down the baggage claim.

Walking down the long terminal after the short tram ride from the international terminal, I saw two homeless men being removed from the outer terminal. The faces of hungry children flashed through my eyes and I realized for that moment that our country has a lot in common with a place like Ecuador.

It was October, during the middle of the press junket. We had just finished a train ride down to El Nariz de Diablo in Alausi. We consumed a box lunch on the tour bus as our driver deftly negotiated the Ecuadorian highland roads.

As our tour guide made his triumphant attempt to extol Cuenca (our destination), I began noticing children awfully close to the road periodically. Many of them had strings in their hands, knotted shreds of old clothing.

A few more moments passed and the frequency of children was increasing. I walked up to the front of the bus and saw that along the road through the highlands, the children were setting up roadblocks with their string tied from one end of the road while one child held the other end up taut for approaching vehicles.

Cars showing no signs of slowing blew through, the children letting the string down when it was obvious their efforts were for naught. I didn’t understand what they were doing.

Then we stopped. Our tour bus driver, an Ecuadorian whom I would come to trust for honest answers, opened the door to the cabin of the bus and asked if we had any food left from our box lunches for the kids.

All nine of us jumped to attention and we put together a large ration of packaged food. A Russian journalist and I walked out of the bus to hand the food to the children. As the smiles across their little faces broke loose, I looked at Katia, who looked back at me. No words needed utterance.

As we got back on the bus, I asked the driver why the people were so hungry here and not elsewhere during our journey. He informed me that the farming industry is everything in the highlands and that periodically, crop yields aren’t sufficient. Everyone goes hungry.

That’s when I saw our tour guide enter the driver’s vestibule and shut the door. Angry Spanish went back and forth between the Ecuadorian men. I would later find out that our driver was being scolded for allowing a group of journalists to see such national disgrace.

I sat down and remained silent, deep in thought, the rest of the way to Cuenca.

Monday, January 01, 2007

Happy New Year

As many of you might have guessed, after a long stretch of no posts on this site, I have indeed arrived home.

I flew back early for a number of reasons but at the end of the day, it's just nice to be back with those you hold close around the holidays.

In review, here is the list of countries and cities I visited:

1.) Poland (Warsaw and Krakow)
2.) Switzerland (Geneva)
3.) France (greater Geneva)
4.) Ecuador (Quito, the Amazon, Riobamba, Cuenca, and Guayaquil)
5.) Hungary (Budapest)
6.) Greece (Athens)
7.) Finland (Helsinki and Tampere)
8.) Sweden (Gothenberg)
9.) Czech Republic (Prague)
10.) Denmark (Copenhagen)

My sincerest thanks to all those reading this and for keeping up with it. It was a wonderful motivator to keep exploring. Perhaps this travel log has a future. Don't forget it!

Friday, December 15, 2006

Praha

And then there was Prague, the capital city of the Czech Republic. I arrived in Prague hoping there were going to be minimal levels of tourists allowing me to navigate the city freely and without crowds holding me up. Dead wrong on this count. But the city still managed to charm me nonetheless. Owing to this is the fact that it went unscathed in World War II. Lucky as many believe it was the only capital city in Europe to do so.

The hostel I stayed in was filled with Americans, Brazilians, and Mexicans. With my pathetic Spanish, I communicated with many and had a wonderful time. But it was outside the rough and smelly hostel that I enjoyed myself the most.

Prague has been seeing tourism for a while, and many believe it still has not peaked yet. Hordes of people surrounded the central square of the old town to watch the lighting of the Christmas tree and observe the Astronomical Clock as it punched the hour with a small presentation of different objects popping out and back in.

As I watched so many people empty their wallets as they purchased coffee, hot wine, souvenirs, etc. in the square, I realized that Mr. Barnum was right: a sucker is born every minute. I had been warned to not purchase anything near the square as prices steeply inflate in the area.

Opting instead to venture into the lesser traveled parts of the city, I was delighted by the ingenuity of the Czechs (one bridge, which doesn't cross a river, rather a ravine, has a four lane highway on top. Below it was the subway line, which, as I stood under it, produced to most frightening sounds. I have to hand it to the Czechs, despite a slow economy (I ate like a king for under $10 with consistency, including a non-obligatory tip and a couple glasses of wine), the Czechs would seem to have the most coveted tourism destination in Europe right now.

Purchasing a copy of The Prague Post, the leading English-language paper in Prague, I read about the constant line of hundreds, often thousands of people who are applying for residency visas. They wait outside the Czech immigration office in Prague everyday, many camping out the night before to guarantee at least a start in their paperwork. What surprised me more? Many of them were Americans.

The tourism has had an interesting effect on the Czechs in Prague, though. They are happy to receive the vast amounts of new capital each year from Americans to Zambians, but their attitude would suggest otherwise. Often cold and a little irritated by the fact that they are slowly losing their own city to the world, their frustration with the massive amounts of tourism is sustained, but quiet. Just remember to speak English, don't insult them with a terribly hacked up Czech when saying hello and thank you.
What's more, while we continue to flood the city, more and more Czechs, being members of the European Union, are emigrating much like Poland's brain drain within the last few years. Better economies in other EU countries seem to suck talent away at an alarming pace. But so goes the boat of capitalism: it sinks or swims, be sure you're on the right boat.


Sunday, December 10, 2006

Plans

Much to my dismay, I finally gave in and decided to visit Prague. My previous apprehension regarding the matter was generated by continual advice from others to the effect of, "Oh my god! Go see Prague!"

And thus, fearing a tourist-ridden city almost completely untouched by war and carrying with it the beauty that arguably defines Central and Eastern Europe, I bought tickets (with the knowledge that this is low-season for tourists so really, I'll have the city to myself; not fighting lines and hordes of French people--who go everywhere by the way).

I will be there for a little over three days, flying out this Tuesday. And as always, a short review will ensue upon my return.

Thursday, November 30, 2006

The Differences

After a number of discussions with individuals whom I have encountered on this little trip of mine, I have come once again to some conclusions, or perhaps observations of our own country. The world is composed of an estimated 6.3 Billion people (of course, entirely depending on which statistical algorithm one chooses to adhere to). With 192-4 (depending on who's counting) countries in the world, we happen to be part of a minority of countries that enjoys a geographical isolation.

More to the point, we're very fortunate in that we were never forced into diplomacy out of necessity for many decades. We could continue our way of life as Americans without worrying about say, Russia coming over the border. Having little fear and threat from countries like Canada and Mexico, we truly found ourselves in a global oasis that is North America.

In my opinion, this did two things. Firstly, we became a dominant economic force in the world because our standard of living facilitated our attainment of disposable income. Instead of looking for safe drinking water, or saving up to emigrate from one European Union country to the other for a higher salary, we are concerned with getting the next iPod. Only in America will you see the frenzied preoccupation with an inanimate object such as a Beanie Baby [sic].

Secondly, yes, we got a little paranoid in our dealings with the rest of the world. I attribute it to our isolation and comfort. Now please understand, I'm not tearing apart America as many expatriates are so fond of doing. It's just an understanding that can only (in my mind, at least) be achieved by gazing upon the US from the outside. Pearl Harbor and then 9/11 would seem to be the harbingers of this behavior that we have adopted.

Having never been attacked and, save the Civil War and American Indian Wars, having never fought a war on our territory after the the War of 1812. When I am in Warsaw, I see it. Remnants of a city once leveled by war. The same for Hungary. This was pointed out rather poignantly when I was in Budapest, and in a museum which was having an Exhibition honoring the 50th anniversary of the Hungarian Uprising against the Russians. In the picture, a 50mm cannon was in front of a badly damaged moving theater. Walking through the streets with my host, he pointed out the very same theater, partly rebuilt, and with picture-perfect resemblance to the picture in the museum (minus the cannon).

Until 9/11, that was a foreign concept to us. And we don't ever want it to happen again. That's why we reacted the way we did. Once thing that surprised me being in Europe and Latin America is that it is extremely difficult to get into the US right now for non-citizens. Gone are the days of the thirty, sixty, and ninety day visas that allowed tourists to float throughout the country with little problem. Full visa applications are required. And if you're not American, I have been hearing reports that customs isn't very lenient anymore either.

We're trying to protect ourselves. And that's acceptable. But to what end are we harming ourselves with our obsession with security. To be frank, the rest of Europe is still not forgetting Guantanamo Bay. They are refusing to back down on receiving answers. To this end, it's apparent that we have become scared of future that could possibly bring with it a global attitude, where the US can no longer be the driver. Instead, it would seem, we will be in the back seat of a car being driven by the Indians and the Chinese, while we sit next to the European Union. Between India and China, there are over 2 Billion people. With 300 Million and a fast growing 400 Million in the US and the EU respectively, our manpower is still not enough to hold up.

On the other hand, we have the intelligence and the infrastructure to sustain happy, healthy lives, while we get out of the car to enter the backseat. The real question is, will the American government and its people takes its attention away from security, just enough, to start helping Americans get on with their lives.

Therein lies one of our larger problems. As a general rule, America was founded based on the fear of a large over-arching government. We didn't like the whims of a monarchical system and certainly detest the idea of dictatorship. So we designed a government that would be sluggish and hard to change, so our economy could anticipate changes and respond accordingly. This, while Americans could count on the fact that if they were ever held liable or accused of a criminal act, there would be due process and indeed, it would take a long time.

In my mind, though, if the US is going to survive in the "New World" that is globalization, we will have to adopt larger governments to handle what the private market has been doing so poorly at: health care. Now, I've been to Finland and I've been to Sweden. Contrary to popular belief, many people take private policies on their health care to supplement what the government provides. But if they didn't have it, they would likely receive care anyway, but just not with the expeditious time frame that would be the ideal. But I don't think we even have that in the US. We have to go to Urgent Care because our doctor can't see us for six weeks minimum.

If there's one thing to take from this little essay of mine, it's this: a bigger government is not something to be frightened of when it's big for the good of the people and controlled by the people. What warrants fear in my mind is an hyper-sensitive government willing to throw due process out the window in the name of national security.